![]() On a double car door, you will need to remove the opener arm and bring the tube to the floor. Caution: As you tilt the shaft, the springs may slide down inside the tube, causing the higher end to jerk upward. On a single-car door, you can let one end drop to the floor. If the opener arm is in the way, remove it. If the cable is not properly installed, it will come loose after installing and winding the springs.Īt this point, you are ready to remove the center support. To prevent the cable from coming off the bottom fixture, Milford pin, squeeze the bottom of each cable loop.įit the loop over the pin and pry as needed to position it completely over the pin. If needed, raise the door enough to get to the bottom fixture pins and remove the cables. Here you see the end of the Torquemaster winding cone.īefore removing the spring assembly you will need to replace the cables. You should be able to lift the winder, cable drum, and the end of the tube at this point. Remove this screw as you did from the other side. Using a 7/16" nut driver or socket, remove the two support screws.Īt the five o'clock position under the drum, notice the small sheet metal screw installed from the opposite side. Sometimes the counter wheel breaks, and you'll need to pry the counter gear off the drive gear housing. Remove the counter wheel and counter gear with a flat screwdriver. Many installers forget to install this screw, and you will not need to remove it.Īt this point, the winder and the end of the tube are free from the jamb and support angle.įollow the same procedure on the opposite side. Remove this with a #2 Phillips head screwdriver or bit. Remove the third smaller sheet metal screw. Notice on this side that the top screw is just to the right of the winding gear bolt head. The winder is secured to the jamb with two lag screws and a third smaller sheet metal screw. Pry the counter gear and counter away from the end of the winder. The center of this wheel is wedged inside the winding cone inside the winder. Inside the counter wheel is a counter gear. If it is not loose, unwind the spring as on the other side until both cables are loose. If not, the other spring may need to be unwound.Ĭonfirm that the cable is loose on the other end. At this point, the cables should loosen from both drums. As you drill, the counter wheel will rotate until it reaches zero. Use a drill with a 7/16" nut driver.ĭrill counterclockwise. If you have already purchased the parts, confirm that the springs will match your door weight.Īfter weighing the door and confirming you have the correct replacement spring or springs, unwind the unbroken spring. To order springs provide the width, height, and weight of the door. ![]() Single car doors normally weigh from 65-80 pounds, and double-wide garage doors typically weigh from 125 to 180 pounds depending on the model. ![]() Shake the door and check the door weight. Lift the pipe wrench handle 90 degrees or until the cables on the drums at each end are loose. Place a properly reinforced analog scale under the door. ![]() You can purchase these from home centers, steel supply stores, or from us.īefore installing the new springs, check the weight of the door. Garage door shafts are hollow one inch outside diameter tubes usually made of 14 - 15 gauge steel. You also need a shaft as long as the door is wide, plus at least six inches. If your original cables are 3/32" please let us know, as these work better on some of the doors. We have kits for both seven and eight-foot door heights, so be sure you order the correct ones. You'll find all these parts in our torsion spring conversion kit. You'll need the spring anchor bracket, bearing, end bearing plates, cable drums, and cables. To begin, gather the parts you need to convert your system.
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